Whether you are an expert climber or enjoy hitting the climbing gym occasionally, a harness is arguably one of the most important pieces of equipment in a climber's toolbox. A climbing harness serves many purposes, the most important being safety. Whether you are purchasing your first harness or replacing one, our Black Diamond Momentum harness review will help you find the perfect harness to fit your needs.
What Is the Black Diamond Momentum Harness?
Our Black Diamond Momentum harness review finds this harness to be ideal for all-around climbers who want comfort and versatility and do not want to fiddle with adjusting belts and buckles.
The Momentum solves this issue by using a pre-threaded waistbelt buckle and customizable trakFIT leg loops.
This harness puts an emphasis on comfort with its bullhorn-shaped waistbelt and Dual Core Construction technology designed to eliminate pressure caused by most other harnesses.
How Does It Work?
The Momentum comes in sizes for both men and women. It features a pre-threaded waistbelt and adjustable leg loops for climbers who want to climb instead of waste time adjusting straps.
To adjust the leg loops using the trakFIT technology, move the slide-adjuster along the webbing of each leg loop. This simple change tightens or loosens in a wide range.
The slide-adjusters also eliminate the possibility of mis-threading and eliminate dangling webbing and straps. Likewise, the pre-threaded waistbelt helps ensure the climber does not incorrectly tie in.
There are two hardpoints for tying the rope into the climbing system and a center belay loop for belaying and rappelling. The nylon construction of this harness ensures flexibility and durability while remaining comfortable.
The Momentum harness is considered to be an all-around harness recommended for sport and trad climbing and may be used for both indoor and outdoor climbing.
The Momentum harness boasts an ultra-comfortable waistbelt designed with a bullhorn shape which helps to improve weight distribution.
The Dual Core Construction technology allows for maximum comfort while providing solid balance and support. This harness also features a pre-threaded speed-adjust waistbelt buckle that eliminates error when tying in.
The weight of the harness is relatively light, weighing in at 350g. In terms of gear hauling, the Black Diamond Momentum harness review found there to be four pressure-molded gear loops and a haul loop.
Harness sizes range from x-small to xx-large.
What to Consider
With so many brands and styles on the market, it can be a daunting task to pick a harness that checks off all your needs. The style of climbing, the fit and features of the harness, and the price are all factors the climber must consider.
Comfort is another equally vital factor to consider when selecting a climbing harness. A harness may be effective, but will be challenging to climb in if not comfortable.
We advise taking all these points into consideration as you decide the best harnass for your climbing needs.
How It Compares
We picked a few similar products available on the market to see how they compare.
Black Diamond Momentum Harness Review
- Pre-threaded Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle
- Bullhorn-shaped waistbelt built using Dual Core Construction
- trakFIT adjustment for easy leg loop customization
- Adjustable rear elastic riser
- Four pressure-molded gear loops
Comfort padding fills both leg loops and the waistbelt of this harness, making it comfortable for falls and short hangs. The bullhorn waistbelt further adds to the comfort of the harness by improving weight distribution.
The fully adjustable leg and waistbelt buckles make this harness easily mobile. Also, the waistbelt features a bullhorn shape for improved weight distribution and ease of movement.
However, the padding of the harness may feel bulky against the body while on longer belays.
The Momentum is intended for all-around climbers and has a range of climbing options that include adjustability, gear loops for racking equipment, and a haul loop for ultimate versatility.
Black Diamond offers a 1-year warranty (from the date of purchase) and will repair, replace, or refund the item if the customer is not satisfied for any reason.
Arc'teryx AR-395a Harness Review
- Material: 7075 T6 aluminum, Burly double weave four-way stretch fabric, 66 nylon webbing, polyurethane
- Buckles: self-locking
- Adjustable Leg Loops: yes
- Gear Loops: 4
- Ice Clipper Slots: 4
The Arc'teryx AR-395a climbing harness is a true all-around harness built for climbing rock or ice. While it is the most expensive harness in our Black Diamond Momentum harness review, it can justify the steep price tag.
A favorite among trad climbers, this high-end harness has a number features including four gear loops, four ice-clipper slots, a rear haul loop, and plenty of space for your gear rack.
This harness includes self-locking buckles, adjustable leg loops, and double-weave four-way stretch fabric. The AR-395a is slightly heavier, weighing in at roughly 400g. Harness sizes range from x-small to x-large.
The AR-395a offers warp-strength technology, which features light-weight, durable, and comfortable construction that evenly disperses weight.
This harness features self-locking buckles and adjustable leg loops to ensure mobility and a precision fit. However, the Arc'teryx harness is heavy when compared to other harness brands.
The Arc'teryx AR-395a is an all-around harness that can be used for climbing or alpinism, making it a versatile harness for all climbing needs.
Arc'teryx has a limited warranty. Only items covered under the limited warranty will be repaired or replaced for the practical lifespan of the product.
Petzl Sama Climbing Harness Review
The Petzl Sama climbing harness is designed for sport climbing and may be used for indoor and outdoor climbing. The Sama uses Endoframe technology which allows for weight distribution, while the wide waistbelt allows comfortable positioning.
This Black Diamond Momentum harness review found the Petzl Sama to be the easiest in terms of leg loop and waistbelt adjustment.
This harness features elasticized leg loops that remain comfortably adjusted and a waistbelt that is flexible and slim in front for more range of movement.
There are two gear loops in the front, two gear loops in the rear, and one rear loop for a trail line.
The harness is slightly heavier when compared to similar brands, weighing in at roughly 400g for a medium size. Harness sizes range from small to x-large.
The low-profile design of the Petzl Sama and padded leg loops and waistbelt ensure maximum comfort.
The Endoframe technology used in the Petzl Sama allows for greater freedom of movement. This harness is slightly heavier than similar harness brands with a weight of roughly 400g..
The Petzl Sama harness is designed primarily for sport climbing, thus limiting it to only one style of climbing.
While Petzl does not specifically state a warranty policy, products are guaranteed for three years from the date-of-purchase. Contact Petzl if your harness has a defect or needs repaired or replaced.
Singing Rock Garnet Harness Review
The Singing Rock Garnet climbing harness is an all-around harness that can be used for sport, trad, and ice climbing, making it a perfect choice for a climber that wants one harness for multiple climbing styles.
This harness boasts adjustable self-locking buckles on the leg loops and waistbelt, EVA foam padding, and a drop seat. The drop seat acts like suspenders and makes it easier to remove the leg loops without taking off the harness entirely.
The ergonomic construction of this harness minimizes weight while maintaining comfort, while the use of abrasion-resistant fabrics provides long-lasting performance.
The garnet weighs in at roughly 400g. For gear hauling, it features four braided gear loops, two ice-clip slots, and a rear haul loop. Also, Singing Rock's adjustable BMI system ensures a perfect fit. Harness sizes range from x-small to xx-large.
The ergonomic construction and the EVA foam padding in the waistbelt and leg loops provide maximum comfort while climbing long routes.
The drop seat and adjustable leg loops provide freedom of movement for mountain and alpine climbs. The Garnet is slightly heavier when compared to other harness brands, weighing in at 400g making it less mobile compared to other harnesses.
This harness is an all-around harness that can be used for sport, trad, and ice-climbing, making it a versatile choice for multiple climbing styles.
Although Singing Rock does not provide information about a warranty, the company does provides a 100% guarantee. Contact Singing Rock if your harness has a defect or needs repaired or replaced.
Edelrid Jay II Harness Review
- OPTIMAL SUPPORT AND COMFORT: The 3D mesh padding, movable foam waist padding, and 3 Easy Glider buckles provide a great balance of support and comfort.
- EXTRA DURABILITY: Our harnesses design features an abrasion protector for extra durability at the tie-in point.
- TRUSTWORTHY EXPERIENCE: Our Company has 150 years of rope making and alpine equipment experience at your fingertips. Our years of hard work have rendered products that you can trust on your next climbing adventure.
- PERFECT ALL-ROUND HARNESS: Part of our Center Fit series, this harness has minimal weight and strong load-bearing webbing.
- ORGANIZATION OPTIONS: This harness offers you 4 symmetrically fixed gear loops for perfect organization and 2 attachment options for ice screw clips.
The Edelrid Jay II is an all-around harness ideal for various types of climbing. This harness features 3D mesh padding and three easy glider buckles for adjustable leg loops and waistbelt.
The Jay boasts moveable foam waist padding which allows the tie-in point and gear loops to remain centered and aligned.
This harness design incorporates a built-in abrasion protector for additional durability at the tie in point, as this is a common area of high wear-and-tear.
Although it does not have a haul loop, this harness features four symmetrical braided gear loops and two ice-clip slots.
The Jay II is heavier than other harnesses, weighing in at 437g and as a result does not pack down as small. Harness sizes range from x-small to x-large.
The 3D mesh padding and the moveable foam waist padding provides maximum comfort and support.
The three easy glider adjustable buckles and the moveable foam waist padding make this harness ideal for mobility; however, this harness has a heavier weight when compared to other harness brands.
The Edelrid Jay II harness is an all-around harness ideal for various types climbing styles.
While Edelrid provides a product guarantee, the company does not state a specific warranty policy. Contact Edelrid if your harness has a defect or needs repaired or replaced.
Overall, our Black Diamond Momentum harness review found the momentum to be a four out of five stars. It is an all-around harness that caters to various climbing styles whether you are a beginner or more advanced climber.
The Momentum features adjustable trakFIT leg loops and a pre-threaded waistbelt that eliminates tie in error, making proper harness fit and adjustment a quick task.
This solution to harness fitting allows the climber to adjust less and spend more time climbing. Using Dual Core Construction technology puts an emphasis on harness comfort by eliminating pressure points for a more supportive, comfortable climb.
While the Black Diamond Momentum climbing harness lacks ice-clip slots, it has average space for racking gear while remaining relatively lightweight.
Though the chunky padding that fills the waistbelt and leg loops may make this harness feel bulkier when compared to similar harness brands, it remains an excellent package for the price and versatility.
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